1990 chevy truck s terminal location on alternator

If you put it on the stud, there's no compensation for voltage drop, it will think you're just fine, because it's going directly on that stud 1-2' away, no multiple connections, length in wire, etc. It goes to the regulator (we're talking internally regulated of course, 3 wire Delco 12-SI type) to determine how much voltage is present. Yes you can put it directly on the stud, but here is why you should not, and this is why GM did not. #2 'Remote voltage sensing' This is where we differ. It's nice being awake Mainly I'm reiterating what you said for my own benefit

#1 field/excite goes to idiot light and ignition cylinder, not #2 sensing wire. #1 to charge light, ignition cylinder, power source. The alternator cannot start charging until there is voltage on the field windings and a magnetic force is created. Yes, #1 field/excite, power supplied like mentioned above when in the on position to excite the field windings. Also goes to your idiot light/gauge.ДЄt least I think I got that right, it's been a while. Your field/excite wire tells your alternator to charge. This is what will give you your 14.4v charging, otherwise you'll be at 12v. It needs to go to a junction block to compensate for voltage drop. This can also go to that same junction block. voltage sensing, tells your alternator how much voltage to produce. Two wires that should plug into the alternator should be labled 1 and 2, if you look closely at the body where the plug goes. This recharges the battery.ДЇrom that same junction, another wire should feed into your main fuse panel for incoming power. One wire from junction block goes to positive battery terminal (that's what the small gauge wire on the main battery cable goes to). The wire on the stud needs to go to a junction block. This main red wire on the stud is outgoing power from the alternator. One stud, and the two wires that have a plug.

1990 chevy truck s terminal location on alternator